As the small boat left Luang Prabang complete with four tourists, us, three locals, the driver and a pile of goods, from beer to bicycles, the heavens opened. The first two hours chugging upriver spent clutching tarpaulin sides to stop them flying up and the rain flying in.
Two hours later and the rain cleared. We were then treated to remote and mountainous scenary, for which Northern Laos has become well known. Sure, signs of slash and burn dot the hillsides, but with 75% of Laos still covered in unmanaged vegetation, greenery still abounds. 25% is still original growth forest, would be nice if more, but few counties can boast even that nowadays.
Water buffalo wallowed at waters edge, small villages briefly appeared as we cruised past, and children flung themselves into the muddy brown waters, frantically waving as we past.
The main fishing methods were also on show in abundance: throw net fishing from the shore or slim river boats;
static nets set from thick bamboo poles in fast rapids bending heavily under the flow of the current; the use of huge triangular hand nets, slowly wafted in the current; and ingenious bamboo wicker fish traps with a heavily stone weighted trap door, usually tucked in bushes at riverside.
A delightful and varied seven hours later and we had arrived in Nong Kieuw. At this point a large concrete bridge spans the river however in the presence of beautiful limestone mountains and the winding river the village is still pretty beautifully located. A quick scout around procured some nice chalets with hammocks.
There's not a huge amount to do in the area. Guided trekking probably the most popular activity although we were seeking more self guided pursuits and more hammock time. In the end we opted to hike between two sets of local caves. Their significance in Laos history that the Pathet Laos resistance used them as hideaways during American carpet bombing. The Pathet Laos were the communist group who eventually took control in 1975. Each cave was signposted with, 'telegraph station', 'hospital' etc. to show how these were utilised during the civil war.
The second set of caves were my favourite. Deserted and overgrown, the descent down into the darkness down rickety bamboo handrails silent and creepy. It was hard to imagine such solemn places alive with revolutionary fervour.
We also ventured further upriver to Muang Noi. Even quieter and more rustic, electricty arrived in the last 6 months, a beautiful place to relax. Our single exertion hiring a row boat and attempting to venture upstream. A fun few hours although our puny rowing skills proved no match for the fast flowing river, physically pulling the boat whilsy wading through the fast stretchs the only answer.
With the Laos visa nearing expiry though it was time to head to Thailand for the last couple of weeks.
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