The Loop and Kong Lor cave

The bus ride from Pakse to Tha khek provided a slice of Laos life we were happy to experience but keen not to repeat. A 6 hour journey by local bus transforming to a 10 hour epic replete with many stops to jam in more passengers and rice. Lots of rice. In fact luggage was displaced to the roof to allow safe passage of said rice which was piled under seats and down the aisle to the point where movement on the bus required 4 limbs.

We arrived in Tha Khek a little later than expected however as Nat and Kaylie had arrived the day previously plans for the next few days were nicely in place. The big draw for the area being 'The Loop'. A 3-4 day circular route by scooter through stunning limestone kharst scenery, the highlight a boat trip through the 7.5km Kong Lor cave.

Now I'm not a motorcyclist and Em has no pretensions of two wheeled expertise, however bikes offer the only sensible option of exploring the area properly. Bikes are more scooters really, the ubiquitous 125s as loved by Asia and simple to operate, being semi automatic. Our practise run around Tad Lo perfectly sufficient to gain basic proficiency. The other key factor assuaging concerns being the relatively quietness of Laos roads.

With Em perched on the back with a small rucksack off we popped the next morning at a steady 30mph in convoy with Nat and Kaylie. We were soon confronted with the raved about scenery. Jungle clad mountains thrusting vertically skywards, speckled with untouched limestone faces. We stopped briefly at our first cave, a spectacular cavern with calm blue pool however knew better was still to come.

Onwards we trundled pausing here or there to stretch legs and soothe numb bums. We paused for an hour or so at a hydroelectric plant visitor centre. The centre certainly made a strong case for the project completed in 2010,  covering in depth, funds and projects to help the environment, local people and unexploded ordnance clearance (UXO). Laos was carpet bombed with cluster bombs by the Americans during the Vietnam war era to disrupt supply lines ( More on that later).

Whilst one always has to take a one sided argument with a pinch of salt, it is certainly true that the electricity produced by the plant generates big money for Laos, 95% is sold straight to Thailand. The project has also seen living standards and healthcare in the area rise, villagers being rehoused to spanking new dwellings and having their earnings rise due to the substantial fishing industry growing out of the 400km square lake.

Our stop for the night was at a small guesthouse overlooking the reservoir, where we were treated to a huge thunderstorm which cut power for the night and raged overhead for a number of hours.

The next day we met our first sign of last nights excitement, a smoking tree stood amidst an arm of water. The second was more disruptive. A landslide had blocked a large chunk of road, a huge boulder sat plum in the middle. Diggers and bulldozers, already present for road finishing were hard at work clearing the debris. With a small column of vans, bikes, locals and tourists we sat for a couple of hours watching them work before enough was cleared to allow passage. A rather bumpy slither through muddy ruts at walking pace until road proper was reached again.

Slowly we dropped from the plateau, enjoying spectacular views and changing scenery before entering the mountain flanked limestone river valley home to Kong Lor cave. Retreating to our bamboo huts by the river and flanked by spectacular limestone cliffs we slept soundly and looked forward to next days exploits through Kong Lor cave.

Likened to a descent into Hades the cave is a must for a any Laos trip. A winding river snakes 7.5km through the darkness and is journeyed by a small boat with two or three passengers, driver and front man, who helps steer the boat from the bow.

The cavern is cathedral like and as atmospheric. As you putter downriver torches strain to light walls and ceiling high above. A brief walk through a stalactite forest allows the boatmen to drag the boat over shallower water. Occasionally another boat appears briefly with blinking torches before passing swiftly into the darkness.

A brief sojourn for drinks in the village at the other side, provisioned through the cave, the journey a part of everyday life, was enjoyed before the return journey. This time i provided some comedy with a plunge down a waist deep hole as I hopped out to assist the boatmen with a small rocky step. Fortunately I had placed my wallet and phone in my waterproof bag prior to this excursion.

After emerging with went for lunch at the excellent Chanta guesthouse. Our party had now expanded by a few people, having met Aimee and Chris from North Wales and Sabine and Erna from Switzerland. With rain now looming, another thunderstorm crackling in the distance, we all decided to stay here for the night. An evening of cards and beer Laos.

The next day our enlarged convoy set out for the lengthy journey back to Tha Khek. With our enlarged convoy and frequent stops, including a string of punctures for Aimee and Chris and a lot of need for bum un numbing it was slow going but we finally said good bye to the spectacular scenery and prepared ourselves for the lengthy bus ride to the capital Vientienne.