Georgetown, Penang. Malaysia's foodie heaven

Heading over the bridge from the mainland Georgetown loomed unexpectedly large. Expecting a town akin to Melaka in size in appearance, populations are similar at around 750,000, Georgetown had a much more highrise and sprawling aspect. Maybe as previously mentioned the fact that the Brits allowed Melaka's importance to wane

Consulting a map though most of the old city and major sites of interest sit within a protected old quarter, which you can walk across in 15 minutes.

One of Georgetown's key attractions is of course the food. Promoted by many as the best in Malaysia my personal highlight was the Mee Goreng, fried noodles, in a spicy tomatoey sauce with crispy squid bits. Another favourite being a breakfast which we enjoyed in a local food market. This consisted of rice cubes and egg fried with some vegetables and and was delicious.

Also worth a few trips was the local hawker center, the Red Market. This offered a huge range of dishes accompanied by local singing talent belting out western hits with a Malay twang. The crispy duck and pork was pretty good here although we failed to try the frog porridge.

In terms of sights probably the highlight for us was the Blue Mansion. Featuring in the Oscar winning french film Indochine. The mansion is an impressively styled house built by the Asian Rockefeller 'Cheong Fatt Tse' and completed in 1888. Arriving as a penniless 16 year old he rose to become one of the last Mandarins and one of Asias most important businessmen. The house is built to precise Feng Shui (sic)  calculations from the airwell helping energy to flow to the drainage and floor tile configuration.

We also saw some impressive colonial architecture and the interesting Clan jetties where a fishing and trading community live poised over the harbour on stilted houses.

However with a hankering for the beach strong we boarded the 8.30am ferry for our next destination and last in Malaysia, Langkawi.

Strawberries, tea and trekking

Arriving in the Cameron Highlands brought some relief from the oppressive humidity of the jungle. The Cameron Highlands are perhaps Malaysias coolest areas with the temperature hovering around low 20s. As a result they offer the ideal climate for vegetable and tea growing. The activities on offer largely revolve around these activities.

Our first day saw us take on a butterfly and strawberry farm. Whilst the butterfly farm did allow us to see a range of small life up close some of the enclosures for the animals/insects/arachnids etc. left a bit to be desired. For example the scorpian area featured a selection of dead scorpians alongside the living. The rabbits also seemed to have nasty case of mange!

The strawberry farm didn't seem worth much time as strawberry picking, and eating, is not exactly unfamiliar to brits. However a quick pit stop for a strawberry juice and slice of strawberry cake proved entertainingly kitsch. The slightly shabby cafe with an electronic version of jingle bells on repeat and roadside stalls offering everything strawberry from doormats to dried strawbs, baby gros to ear muffs.

Not sounding too inspiring so far, although actually being in the cooler climate and schlepping around tourist attractions was quite relaxing. A wander round the Sun Poh Buddhist temple next. An impressive temple, with some giant golden buddhas and plenty of devotees making offerings was worthwhile.

Food in Tanah Rata, the main backpacker stop was pretty good. Southern Indian food popular, with banana leaf meals around 8Mr (£1.50). These consisted of rice, some dhal, coconut veg, a samosa, popadu
ms, yoghurt, herbal soup and lime pickle plus a dish of choice. Breakfasts again revolving around Roti and accompanying Dhal.

The following day we had planned a longer walk, to climb the highest local peak however Em was a bit under the weather with a cold so we opted for a shorter walk up the closest peak to Tanah Rata. This turned out a bit longer then expected, and the paths steep and muddy however we made it via the odd altercation with thorn bushes and just the 1 leech. Of note the trails are fairly narrow and overgrown.

The next day and with onwards travel to Penang booked in the afternoon we took in  perhaps the most popular tourist attraction. A visit to a tea plantation, visiting the Boh Sungais Palas estate. A standard trip revolves around a tour of the factory and tea overlooking some stunning views of the plantation. Tea making in nut shell seems to constitute: picking, semi drying (withering), crushing, fermenting, grading then drinking.

Onwards then to Penang!

The ancient Taman Negara

Malaysia's Taman Negara is said to be the worlds oldest at 150million years old. Kuala Tahan is the usual base for tourists and home to the Park office.

We based ourselves at the Durian chalets, a 5 minute walk from the village centre. A basic but clean and comfortable chalet with an en suite shower and loo, albeit a squat one, which set us back only 40mr per night. (£8)

The village itself is in two halfs, split by a wide and fast river. The far bank to us offering the posher tourist resort and entrance point to most of the hiking trails. A boat across on demand costs 1mr per person. It's essential to bring all currency as no atms are available and small notes are useful. In order to get our bearings we also signed up to a package of intro tours including the canopy walk, a river trip and visit to a local Orang Asli, Original people, tribe.

In pouring rain and with the canopy walk closed we opted to go for a walk ourselves, Em wisely donning her leech socks and me tucking socks into my trousers. In or after heavy rains the little blighters emerge like hyperactive slinkies, homing in on anything with comical intensity. As Em will testify my first demonstration of their homing abilities saw one latch onto my finger with vigourous intent. So much for waving a finger just out of reach.

The park maps are tad basic however we managed to walk a suitable loop and were fortunate to see some creatures including: a few wild boar which crashed out of the undergrowth 10 yards away, looked as shocked as us and disappeared before I could reach for my camera, a big but dead scorpian, a sambar deer and most impressively a small snake of about 1m which turned out to be a Blue Malaysian Coral Snake (photo not mine as mine were rubbish). Beautifully blue striped down its sides with a distinctive red head and tail. The snake slowly and quietly moved off allowing us to watch it from a couple of metres. This one is deadly venemous so I restrained Emma from going all Steve Irwin on it.

Em was the eagle eyes who seemed to spot everything first. She also seemed to attract leeches like a pork pie in a weight loss camp although by virtue of the leech socks avoided any successful attacks. We both removed several trying to find clear skin although I missed one which presumably had its fill and dropped off leaving just a bloody smudge on my calf. Probably for the better as the bites heal better if the leech leaves of its own volition.

The afternoon was clearer so we completed the first half of our tour. Firstly a fast ride up river in a traditonal long Malay boat with a whopping great outboard on the back. The guide, who insisted on calling me Wayne Rooney which is not a great likeness obviously, took great delight in getting us soaked from head to toe with a paddle, as the driver weaved up rapids deliberately sending water over the sides.

Next up was a tour of an Orang Asli Village. This was very interesting and provides useful income for the tribe however felt a bit awkward and almost like going to a zoo. We couldn't really bring our selves to go poking cameras in huts and suchlike as the tribes people clearly did not seem to enjoy tourist presence from their expressions despite the income.

However there was an interesting demonstration in fire making using a rattan rope, grooved log and suitable timber. The fire was then used to assemble some darts for the blowpipe which we both had a crack at. The fire softens a plug of latex which is used to glue on a balsa flight. Another type of latex which is toxic is used to poison tip the dart. We both had a go at shooting the pipe although didn't quite hit the target. We also bought a small but working version made by the tribe as a way of earning some extra uncome. I was suprised how well it works.

Dinner in Taman Negara is served by a line of floating restaurants, our favourite was named Family Restaurant and offered a nice range of dishes including Em's favourite satay.

After a very warm and muggy night we were up early for a quick stroll before our tour began. Nothing too venemous was spotted this time although em spotted a long tailed macaque. Although we had walked much of the trail the previous day our next day tour took in the canopy walkway. 45m above the ground and suitably rickety feeling although actually safe as houses. Sadly I snagged and lost my watch somewhere along this.

The rest of the walk was very interesting, our guide providing great explanations of useful plants and how to use them. Amongst other things we learnt how to extract water from bamboo and lianas, which plants were good for heart conditions and staunching blood flows, the sandpaper leaves useful for, well, sanding, and which trees sap makes nice sweets. Whilst I quite like do it yourself walks this guided one although an easy walk was well worth it. The other key highlight was a venemous centipede dozing quietly on a tree next to the path. Another thing that can kill in the jungle. Around 7 inches long and red and black you definately wouldn't want one in your sleeping bag.

That night however we did take a short night walk, the jungle alive with noise after dark, although failed to spot anything new.

With most of our clothes all pretty soaked and the weather remaining iffy we decided to head for the Cameron Highlands in the morning. One tip is that without direct sun and with such high humidity clothes will just not dry in the jungle so it's worth keeping a dry set for the evenings and donning the damp skanky ones in the day!

(snake photo taken from oldstuff magazine for illustrative purposes)

Jelly fish crisps and eggs on sticks

One of the most raved about apects of Malaysia is the grub. With Melaka as our first port of call we would have ample opportunity to try a wide range first hand. Much like Singapore Melaka offers an MalIndChinese cocktail of gastronomic influences. Again distinct areas are defined however Malay influences featured heavily in many of China town's foodie street carts.

As luck would have it our first night coincided that not too insignificant event of Chinese New Years eve. Despite our midnight arrival at Melaka Central bus station causing us to miss the heat of the action, a swift taxi ride, we were probably diddled but wasn't feeling like haggling over a fiver, we screeched up to the hostel with firecrackers still blazing all over town. A quick check in to our antique, slightly ramshackle, but very friendly hostel and we were out on the town.

Heading towards Chinatown the goddam streets still hummed with life, an errant firework whistling skywards past our ears cau

sing us to nearly fall down the drain. Chinatown felt pretty magical, red lanterns strung gaily from every available hanging point and the air thick with gunpowder smoke. Miner Birds thick in every tree tootled a cacophony in response to the last crackles and bangs as local children exhausted their stash of bangers. However after a long journey and with things in wind down we headed back to the hostel where a cats cradle of ropework allowed me to lash up the mosquito net for the night and some well earned rest.

The next morning we rose fairly early and resumed our tour of the town with a hunt for an atm. Cashed up breakfast followed, I opted for dumpling soup which was excellent and Em a Tofu, Soy sauce noodle creation.

A day of wandering followed taking in a few things including what's left of of the original Portugese fort and incense laden buddhist shrines. In a nutshell Melakan history goes something like this: small trading village to Sultanate trading hub, to heavily contested and warred over Portugese trading hub, to Dutch takeover, to some temporary swapsies with the British during the Napoleonic era, to permanent swapsies when greater interests arose and the British wound the place down in favour of establishing Singapore and Penang.

Top snacks of the day included jelly fish crisps, which started so so but ended moreishly, and pineapple tarts which were strangely cheese tinged much to Em's dislike (dairy allergy). The highlight was yet to come in the form of quails eggs cooked on skewers and topped with sausage. A huge range of food stalls line Melaka's famous Jonker street, with a supporting cast of trinket shops. Jonker street is perhaps a little over touristy these days to rate as a must see but still lively and fun. We had a few beers and headed to bed.

The next day brought more sightseeing. A river boat tour, the maritime museum and dutch quarter. We also scoped the next journey to the Taman Negara rainforest finally opting to skip up to Kuala Lumpar, a cross town monorail and direct bus to Jerantut. Whilst the original plan was a trip to Gemas on the bus, and a journey on the Jungle railway the connecting times meant a 6 hour wait in Gemas and an early hours arrival in Jerantut.

This evening we enjoyed more fine fare and some by the river drinks, chatting to an amiable Aussie. An early start should see us nearing the Jungles of Teman Negara for dusk. Em also bought some floaty light trousers and looks more back packery, me a cloth man bag, as a rucksack for schlepping about in the evenings is a pain, although do look like a doddamn psuedo hippy.

A rainy day in Singapore and off to Melaka

Day 2 and slight jet leg saw a long lie in. Our windowless room not helping body clocks adjust in perpetual darkness. However we finally rose and made for a late lunch via the bus station and our tickets to Melaka on Saturday. Due to the pending Chinese New Year availability was limited, with a 7.30pm departure and midnight arrival the only option. This would have the benefit though of affording us some extra time in Singapore.

Our first foray into a proper Singaporean food court, local food for local people, was our choice for lunch. After some minor ordering confusion Em discovered even small bits of chicken appears to come habitually on the bone. Fine for fingers but tricky with chop sticks. Tasty though and a meal for two for £5 is always going to seem a bargain.

Then the heavens opened, no light drizzle here, more a pummeling, sending us to buy a cheap umbrella and test the waterproofness of Em's poncho. Needless to say the poncho struggled, proving nylon polka dots no substitute for plastic. Although Erik's umbrella held up admirably!

A soggy pair arrived at the National Museum. We opted for an audio tour of Singapore's history. Starting with the Singapore Stone, featuring an unknown language by an unknown author it illustrates a black spot in early history. Discovering the source of Singapores name, a shaky sighting of a possible lion by early hunting party of colonisers, hence Lion Island. Eventually traversing British, Dutch and Portugese colonisation, a place at the centre of great trade with the east, and of course the bloody chapters of WW2 and Japanese occupation. Ending with a colourful plastic television!

The rain had since abated enough for a walk around Little India, although in daytime and surrounded by lots of building works this was uninspiring. We retreated to a moroccan place near our hostel for a lamb shish, a beer/g&t and bed. Our original plans for the night zoo scotched by the rains.

Day 3 dawned and a normal nights sleep meant we made breakfast and a walk towards the Marina bay and Grand Prix Circuit. We took a trip round the 'Singapore Flyer', Singapore's slightly bigger, half the price and equally impressive answer to the London Eye. A sweltering stroll around the floats preparing for later New Years eve celebrations and another spot of local eating was followed by a trip to the Marina Bay gardens. These new and stunning gardens offered an educational tour of culturally relevant plants and traditions against a backdrop of whatever the great big three pillared skyscraper with a boat deck thing on top is called.

Another drenching on return to collect our bags from the hostel. A wait in the food court for our bus to Melaka, aided by some delicious satay and onwards to Malaysia. Although we are currently stuck at the border while one of our bus load appears stuck at immigration.

Arrival in the Lion City

After a fairly non eventful BA flight, yay club seats were secured, we touched down in Singapore around 6pm local time. A quick trip on the metro later we were within striking distance of our hostel for the night. Of note the MRT sytem provided an easy and cheap route to the city for about £1.50 each.

A 5 minute stroll from the metro station and we were at the Feel at home backpackers. Perfectly servicable with friendly staff and a good location in the Islamic Malay quarter. Good for a cheap stuffed bread or middle eastern style feast. Less so for peace and quiet when the call to prayer will no doubt kick off at 5am. Can't complain though for £30 per night, a veritable bargain for Singapore.

Singapore was only ever meant as a jumping off point for us for Malaysia however promises enough distractions to fill at least a couple of days. Although tired and slightly jaded from a couple too many g&ts on the flight over, this evening saw us take a stroll through the Malay quarter, quite vibrant and upbeat with a compact but wide array of cheap eats and shisha bars.

A 45 min walk to China town saw us trying to consume minced pork, dumplings and bony chicken with chopsticks. Tasty but a bit above our as yet un honed chopstick skills. China town was buzzing with a wide array of very cheap souvenir stands and tightly packed and jostling throng. However with a good nights sleep and trips to little india, raffles and the night zoo beckoning tomorrow we hit the hay.

ready to go

the bags are packed and we're ready to go.