Battambang and a bamboo train

Cambodia's second largest city, Battambang's atmosphere is the contrary to what you would expect after the craziness of Phnom Penh. Laid back and sleepy with quiet streets and low rise architecture it feels more market town then metropolis.

With my stomach still on the mend however a good place for a couple of days recuperation and a gentle tour of the main sites.

Most tourists visit three main attractions with the biggest draw being the famous bamboo railway. This ingenious use of old narrow guage french railway tracks was a useful form of transport for people and goods across the remaining rail network although seems more of a tourist concern nowadays. The stretch run for tourists controlled by a queuing system and police and attracting a $5 fee for the hour return trip.

The trains are simple but effective in constructuon. Essentially two axles placed on the track with a bamboo tray sitting on top.  A drive belt being looped between pullys on the rear axle and a tiny petrol engine bolted to the bamboo. This means the whole train can be lifted off the track in approximately 20 seconds to allow a train passing the other way through.

The trains rattle along at a fair lick, 20-30mph and rules for who gets off the track in a head on situation pretty much seem to follow some basic rules. Firstly load of each train, the less people and goods the easier to get out the way, secondly number of trains in each direction, one would make way for two, and finally in an even contest direction of travel. With only two of us aboard we ended up making way every time, about 8 times. A fun journey however.

The second stop for the day was the Angkor era temple of Banan. Necessitating a steep slog uphill you are afforded a great view of the surrounding countryside. The crumbling temple remains follow the 5 tower structure common to this era, and Angkor Wat itself, with some nice carvings still in places.

The final stop was to the killing caves. Like many of the killing fields throughout the country now shrines to the dead. The caves themselves beautiful limestone caverns which had the executed thrown in. A drop of perhaps 60ft in the main cave, which as well as a shrine of bones features a large reclining buddha, carefully washed and maintained by a local monk. The smiling buddha in some ways incongruous with the bloody history of the place but perfectly adding a calm and reverent air.

With the big Cambodian draw of Angkor Wat next on the list, we booked our bus and headed north east to Siem Reap.