Tuesday, 12 February 2013

Jelly fish crisps and eggs on sticks

One of the most raved about apects of Malaysia is the grub. With Melaka as our first port of call we would have ample opportunity to try a wide range first hand. Much like Singapore Melaka offers an MalIndChinese cocktail of gastronomic influences. Again distinct areas are defined however Malay influences featured heavily in many of China town's foodie street carts.

As luck would have it our first night coincided that not too insignificant event of Chinese New Years eve. Despite our midnight arrival at Melaka Central bus station causing us to miss the heat of the action, a swift taxi ride, we were probably diddled but wasn't feeling like haggling over a fiver, we screeched up to the hostel with firecrackers still blazing all over town. A quick check in to our antique, slightly ramshackle, but very friendly hostel and we were out on the town.

Heading towards Chinatown the goddam streets still hummed with life, an errant firework whistling skywards past our ears cau

sing us to nearly fall down the drain. Chinatown felt pretty magical, red lanterns strung gaily from every available hanging point and the air thick with gunpowder smoke. Miner Birds thick in every tree tootled a cacophony in response to the last crackles and bangs as local children exhausted their stash of bangers. However after a long journey and with things in wind down we headed back to the hostel where a cats cradle of ropework allowed me to lash up the mosquito net for the night and some well earned rest.

The next morning we rose fairly early and resumed our tour of the town with a hunt for an atm. Cashed up breakfast followed, I opted for dumpling soup which was excellent and Em a Tofu, Soy sauce noodle creation.

A day of wandering followed taking in a few things including what's left of of the original Portugese fort and incense laden buddhist shrines. In a nutshell Melakan history goes something like this: small trading village to Sultanate trading hub, to heavily contested and warred over Portugese trading hub, to Dutch takeover, to some temporary swapsies with the British during the Napoleonic era, to permanent swapsies when greater interests arose and the British wound the place down in favour of establishing Singapore and Penang.

Top snacks of the day included jelly fish crisps, which started so so but ended moreishly, and pineapple tarts which were strangely cheese tinged much to Em's dislike (dairy allergy). The highlight was yet to come in the form of quails eggs cooked on skewers and topped with sausage. A huge range of food stalls line Melaka's famous Jonker street, with a supporting cast of trinket shops. Jonker street is perhaps a little over touristy these days to rate as a must see but still lively and fun. We had a few beers and headed to bed.

The next day brought more sightseeing. A river boat tour, the maritime museum and dutch quarter. We also scoped the next journey to the Taman Negara rainforest finally opting to skip up to Kuala Lumpar, a cross town monorail and direct bus to Jerantut. Whilst the original plan was a trip to Gemas on the bus, and a journey on the Jungle railway the connecting times meant a 6 hour wait in Gemas and an early hours arrival in Jerantut.

This evening we enjoyed more fine fare and some by the river drinks, chatting to an amiable Aussie. An early start should see us nearing the Jungles of Teman Negara for dusk. Em also bought some floaty light trousers and looks more back packery, me a cloth man bag, as a rucksack for schlepping about in the evenings is a pain, although do look like a doddamn psuedo hippy.

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